離開清水寺,再度逛了一小段清水道,買了名產生八橋之後,就要轉到徒步專用的三年坂(產寧坂)囉。接下來就是清水寺周邊小巷弄散策啦。從清水寺到高台寺、知恩院,最後到祇園,就是穿梭在這些古風石板路之間,由三年坂、二年坂、一年坂、寧寧之道串聯。
![](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/1584020262724.jpg?resize=640%2C538&ssl=1)
看前一篇:京都│東山❶│清晨7點,我在清水寺~避開人潮的秘訣~悠閒漫步音羽山~還你一個寧靜的觀覽空間
➽三年坂
古都京都的散步小徑,也許是三年坂(産寧坂)最具代表性了。兩邊有許多餐廳、咖啡廳、茶屋、名產、精品、工作室……雖然是早上9點,也已經有店家開門做生意,這是一條非常古樸(同時也很商業化)的街道。
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清水坂上這個轉角店鋪是七味家本舖,就是從這裡轉入三年坂(産寧坂)。七味家本舖創店已經有360年!自古以來就一直提供到清水寺參拜的香客辣椒粉熱水飲用取暖。這麼多年屹立不搖,也致力研究辣椒粉、調味粉之類的產品,說是京都第一也不為過。不過我們沒有吃七味粉那類的東東~所以沒逛。
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從三年坂一眼望下去,就見到那個著名地標:垂櫻!5月初花期早已過了,現在一片青綠。
![](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190505085147-1.jpg?resize=640%2C611&ssl=1)
在櫻花期間,好多人慕名來賞這棵櫻花樹。京都花季人擠人的新聞報導,常常都是在這裡取景的……
![](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190505085253-1.jpg?resize=640%2C505&ssl=1)
櫻花樹所在的店家,是一間賣京料理、豆腐料理的餐廳/料理亭,叫做明保野亭。傳說這間料理亭從前是旅館,坂本龍馬這些幕末的志士,常常在此投宿、秘密集會。但說真的是不是這間(或這個位置)、倒也未必,姑且聽之。
這裡有一塊解說牌,手繪版,非常可愛。上面標註了龍馬常去的明保野亭、當時最可能的位置。
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➽三年坂(産寧坂)名稱由來
三年坂(産寧坂)名稱由來,自古以來有很多說法。其中一說,是因為這條路通往祈求生產平安的「子安塔」,所以稱産寧坂。也有一說這條路是大同3年(808年)開道的,所以叫「三年坡」。
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![IMG20190505085427 IMG20190505085427](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190505085427-scaled.jpg?fit=374%2C635&ssl=1)
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傳說若在産寧坂跌倒,會在3年以內死去;另一個傳說則是一旦跌倒,會縮短3年的壽命。噢~這傳說實在很狠!不過、萬一跌倒的話,也不用緊張,趕快去買個葫蘆,就可以消災解厄啦。
![](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190505085607-1.jpg?resize=640%2C435&ssl=1)
因為葫蘆跟不倒翁一樣,「即使倒了也會自己爬起來」,所以可以保平安、消災解厄。(這是葫蘆屋的行銷手段嗎?古人這麼會行銷……)。不過、我們不是來買葫蘆的。只是牛仔控需要一個日圓零錢包(跳tone)。
![IMG20190505085714 IMG20190505085714](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190505085714.jpg?fit=408%2C571&ssl=1)
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下了階梯,繼續是石板路,這有一間興正寺靈山本廟,據說寺廟境內,春櫻、秋楓景緻也十分美麗。
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往前再走,其實夾道左右都是相當有名但都還沒開的店家。尤其右邊這區,有個青龍苑。青龍苑是個複合式庭園,有7、8家京都名店,共享這個空間,譬如藝妓咖啡優雅佳(よーじや)就在其中,還有3座古代茶屋。(似乎青龍苑才是當時明保野亭的位置)
![](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/1584022263689.jpg?resize=640%2C531&ssl=1)
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![IMG20190505090650 IMG20190505090650](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190505090650.jpg?fit=324%2C538&ssl=1)
犬矢來(右圖)又出現了!到京都旅遊常常看到這些古老的町屋房舍,木牆下設有這些小柵欄。這是保護木造屋牆的設計,通常是竹編的、有弧度的小柵欄、緊貼在牆角。這樣一來狗狗無法靠牆邊撒尿、二來醉漢不會倒臥在你家牆角(更慘的是撒尿)、三是可防屋簷雨水飛濺造成木條腐蝕,而且可以防小偷!真是聰明的設計!
![IMG20190505090705 IMG20190505090705](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190505090705.jpg?w=640&ssl=1)
![IMG20190505090740 IMG20190505090740](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190505090740.jpg?fit=382%2C809&ssl=1)
![IMG20190505090815 IMG20190505090815](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190505090815.jpg?fit=382%2C809&ssl=1)
轉入二年坂前,在這間小舖吃了豆腐饅頭和豆腐抹茶冰。然後先往八坂塔走去,再回來逛二年坂。
![IMG20190505091004 IMG20190505091004](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190505091004.jpg?w=640&ssl=1)
![IMG20190505091514 IMG20190505091514](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190505091514.jpg?fit=231%2C489&ssl=1)
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➽八坂塔
![](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190505092030.jpg?resize=640%2C366&ssl=1)
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法觀寺(八坂塔)是於飛鳥時代所創建的寺院。高達46m,可說是京都東山地區的地標,被指定為國家重要的文化財。
![IMG20190505093038 IMG20190505093038](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190505093038.jpg?fit=377%2C798&ssl=1)
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![IMG20190505093054 IMG20190505093054](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190505093054.jpg?fit=349%2C739&ssl=1)
八坂塔是10:00才開喔~所以我們也沒能進去。
➽二年坂
在多條小徑中,「二年坡」跟「三年坂」一樣熱鬧,二年坂在大正初期時開闢,正式名稱為「二寧坂」。一路走下來,真的看到好多木屋&木板&木條喔@@快要感覺麻痺了。
![IMG20190505093506 IMG20190505093506](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190505093506.jpg?fit=373%2C790&ssl=1)
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二年坂這兒,以商店居多,也是一樣幾乎沒開門,所以我們就沒怎麼逛了。事前對逛街沒做功課,不知道這裡有間星巴克,他8點就營業了呢。
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![IMG20190505093949 IMG20190505093949](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190505093949.jpg?fit=380%2C805&ssl=1)
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2019年4月明仁天皇在世退位,由兒子明德天皇即位,5月1日起日本國號改為令和(れいわ),我們到訪時正是5月初,寺廟、商家,很多地方都看到慶祝的活動&標語之類的。
接下來就往高台寺、知恩院前進囉。