走文青掛的旅人,一定會喜歡上伊根這個小漁村。伊根町位於京都府的北方,丹後半島的北端,總人口才2千多人,以漁業為經濟主力。這裡據說是浦島太郎故事的發生地、也是傳說中國秦代徐福來到日本的登陸地。不過我們的目標,只鎖定伊根另一個特色:伊根浦的舟屋群。
![](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190509104953.jpg?resize=640%2C403&ssl=1)
➽除了舟屋,關於伊根的2個傳說~
應該很少人跟牛仔控一樣沒聽過浦島太郎的故事吧?中國傳說故事也有類似的啊,就是漁夫救了海龜,受邀去龍宮一遊,返鄉後發現,龍宮一天、地上百年!整個嚇呆這樣的故事……(真的沒聽過?不會吧……)
徐福就是幫秦始皇找不死仙丹的那位術士,喔喔,只要不是童話神話、牛仔控就知識淵博啦哈哈。
![](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/1581761167522.jpg?resize=640%2C547&ssl=1)
➽丹海巴士到伊根灣
說回伊根舟屋,是伊根浦特有的傳統建築,當地居民沿著海岸、築起2層高的建築物,當然,是木屋~~一樓作為停泊船隻用、二樓則為住所,有點像東南亞的水上人家!舟屋是一種自江戶時代中期起出現的房屋,現在環繞伊根灣,還有230間,也已經在2005年被列入日本重要傳統的建造物群保存地區。
![](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190509105928.jpg?resize=640%2C500&ssl=1)
從天橋立到伊根、可以利用❶伊根航路、❷丹海巴士這2種方式,都是丹後海陸交通經營。不過,要特別注意的是❶伊根航路並不是一年四季天天營運,似乎只有春夏秋的六日行駛,一天往返一班,票價不便宜,單程要1500¥,只停4個站,時間也差不多要1小時。所以這對觀光客來講不太實用。(要搭伊根航路一定要上官網確定時間→丹後海陸交通株式會社)
![](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190509094823-e1581771194638.jpg?resize=502%2C403&ssl=1)
所以我們在天橋立車站搭丹海巴士往伊根去。9:46分那班是「经ヶ岬線」,終點是伊根。這1小時車程裡、巴士停了45個小站!基本上就是穿梭社區、沿著海岸往北去。除了看風景,我也用巴士表確認沿線車站:「喔~這就是波見口站啊!」這樣,還蠻好玩的。
![快到伊根町的海岸風景](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190509102148.jpg?resize=640%2C342&ssl=1)
➽伊根灣~在哪一站下車好?
伊根舟屋周邊的遊覽方式,就是在伊根灣這裡散策、穿梭入民宅巷道中,看海+吹鹹鹹的海風。而主要道路只有一條,不會迷路,巴士會帶你到站啊!不過玩法依人而異,可以依照自己喜歡的方式,在其中一個巴士站下車。下面這張圖截取自舟屋日和(←官網)的DM,是我看過這麼多的伊根地圖中最喜歡的。
![](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/1581775331042.jpg?resize=640%2C335&ssl=1)
前一篇文有提到「伊根線」、「蒲入線」、「经ヶ岬線」3條巴士路線會經過伊根。我上面列出5個巴士站,只有「伊根線」全部都有停喔。其他2條路線,只到❷伊根或❸舟屋之里公園前就會轉走了。這很重要是因為,如果你下午回程,在❺伊根郵便局前等巴士,那可要等到地老天荒了,從12點到下午5點都沒有車啊~~重要!
![](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190509104945.jpg?resize=640%2C398&ssl=1)
至於❶日出,是搭伊根灣遊覽船的地方,巴士一下車就看得到,價錢是680¥、約25分鐘,繞伊根灣一圈。但我們沒有搭船,不曉得在哪裡爬文看到,遊覽船其實沒有很靠近船屋喔,如果要拍照,看上面那張圖上的4個相機icon,人家都說了那是最好的拍照點呢。不過海上遊船確實可以看見不一樣的岸邊景色,也可以試試。
結論:如果不騎單車,以❷伊根站為基地最好,周邊景點最多,進可攻退可守!
看前一篇:京都│伊根&天橋立一日遊行程規劃~使用JR PASS的交通方式~一日大遷徙提案~只要早起就行啦~
➽伊根灣漫步,讓海風吹亂頭髮
![](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190509105758.jpg?resize=640%2C302&ssl=1)
![IMG20190509104814 IMG20190509104814](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190509104814.jpg?fit=309%2C654&ssl=1)
![IMG20190509104925 IMG20190509104925](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190509104925.jpg?fit=309%2C654&ssl=1)
好啦~我們在伊根巴士站下車,旁邊就是伊根浦公園,這裡有單車的舟屋XD,裡面如果有單車,可以免費使用,伊根灣有4個單車亭,可在任何一處借還。牛仔控不愛騎單車,所以我們到日本玩那麼多次,目前都還是靠雙腳一步一腳印。伊根町觀光案內所也在這兒。
![](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190509105251.jpg?resize=640%2C323&ssl=1)
從這裡走回去一點,有一間創業250年的向井酒造,他的伊根滿開赤米酒好像挺有名的,後來在天橋立那邊的土產店也有看到。再往回走一點有一間八坂神社,裡面的神是從京都八坂神社請來的,每年七月底會舉辦伊根祭,也被稱為「海上祇園祭」。
![舟屋向海的那面。一樓是船庫。](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190509105143.jpg?resize=640%2C358&ssl=1)
![](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190509104956.jpg?resize=640%2C410&ssl=1)
![](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190509110757.jpg?resize=640%2C354&ssl=1)
![IMG20190509110553 IMG20190509110553](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190509110553.jpg?fit=295%2C625&ssl=1)
![IMG20190509110848 IMG20190509110848](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190509110848.jpg?fit=295%2C625&ssl=1)
我們在5月的星期四上午到訪。街景就是這樣滴~遊客非常少,當地人也不多。當然啦好像可以到舟屋體驗之類的,不過每間屋子看起來都是民宅&沒人在。
➽伊根舟屋寫真
![IMG20190509105947 IMG20190509105947](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190509105947.jpg?fit=291%2C475&ssl=1)
![IMG20190509105916 IMG20190509105916](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190509105916.jpg?w=640&ssl=1)
![IMG20190509110837 IMG20190509110837](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190509110837.jpg?w=640&ssl=1)
有營業的店家門前,看得到這些巧思的設計裝飾。
![](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190509105148.jpg?resize=640%2C302&ssl=1)
![](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190509105213.jpg?resize=640%2C302&ssl=1)
![伊根(いね)舟屋](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190509110126.jpg?resize=640%2C416&ssl=1)
![](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190509110109.jpg?resize=640%2C352&ssl=1)
![](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190509110443.jpg?resize=640%2C302&ssl=1)
![IMG20190509110450 IMG20190509110450](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190509110450.jpg?fit=309%2C716&ssl=1)
![IMG20190509105224 IMG20190509105224](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190509105224.jpg?fit=309%2C654&ssl=1)
住在2樓,打開窗戶就是海,不知道是甚麼感覺,來這裡體驗民宿宿泊就知道了吧~不過我們兩個都不太喜歡住在別人家的模式。
![](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190509110641.jpg?resize=640%2C331&ssl=1)
➽舟屋日和 FunayaBiyori
從人口資料來看,伊根町1970年有4千多人。不過40年過去,人口少了一半,就跟所有凋零的村落一樣,人口外流嚴重。不過別感傷!伊根町是「日本最的美村莊聯盟」的一員。他們正以當地的食材、料理、風光、文化、體驗……讓世人知道小村落是獨一無二的、還在閃耀光芒。譬如「舟屋日和」。
![](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190509110925.jpg?resize=640%2C334&ssl=1)
舟屋日和是伊根觀光交流設施,有點像我們的社區營造,由官方與地方一起規畫的空間。這幾棟建築,有咖啡館、餐廳、土產販賣部、還有一個空間放置展示伊根祭的2艘禮船。它的位置正好是伊根灣的中心點。
![](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190509111008.jpg?resize=640%2C214&ssl=1)
![](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190509111141.jpg?resize=640%2C429&ssl=1)
![](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190509111034.jpg?resize=640%2C384&ssl=1)
![IMG20190509111229 IMG20190509111229](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190509111229.jpg?fit=315%2C667&ssl=1)
![IMG20190509111216 IMG20190509111216](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190509111216.jpg?fit=315%2C667&ssl=1)
Ine Cafe 我們一定會去的,因為走到哪裡都會喝一杯。而餐廳鮨割烹~海宮~有當季捕撈的海鮮料理、每天現採的當地農作物、搭配當地自製的地酒、有我喜歡的握壽司,但是現在還沒到午餐時間,所以沒去。
![](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190509111837.jpg?resize=640%2C302&ssl=1)
![](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190509111939.jpg?resize=640%2C480&ssl=1)
![](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190509112318.jpg?resize=640%2C324&ssl=1)
![IMG20190509112122 IMG20190509112122](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190509112122.jpg?fit=348%2C737&ssl=1)
![IMG20190509112346 IMG20190509112346](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190509112346.jpg?fit=352%2C507&ssl=1)
牆上是一幅舟屋的水彩畫。
![](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190509112424.jpg?resize=640%2C302&ssl=1)
因為很認真在發呆,沒有多拍ine cafe內部。不過附上舟屋日和的影片,旅人看了一定會心動。
➽舟屋の里公園(道の駅)
離開舟屋日和,我們想要到舟屋の里公園眺望伊根灣。不過這不是在主要公路旁,他在山上。我在做功課時知道有一條階梯小路,對步行者來說是個珍貴的捷徑。
![](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190509120710.jpg?resize=640%2C302&ssl=1)
功課也做了、google map實景也看了、DM也研究了,胸有成竹跟牛仔控說:「就是他!跟我走!我們爬上去!」
![](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190509120742.jpg?resize=461%2C693&ssl=1)
牛仔控抬頭一看:「不可能啦!路都被封了!」但我還是不死心,認為就是他!
我一意孤行硬爬上去~嗯~走了幾步就真的走不下去了耶。雜草覆蓋階梯不說,上頭都是樹!好吧~只好下來、再往伊根漁港方向走過去看看……
喔~原來階梯在這裡。
![](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190509121023.jpg?resize=640%2C322&ssl=1)
![](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190509121327.jpg?resize=355%2C625&ssl=1)
到啦!原來遊客都在這裡啊!
![](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190509121617.jpg?resize=640%2C302&ssl=1)
![](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190509121619.jpg?resize=640%2C342&ssl=1)
先在這俯視伊根灣,拍拍照。
![](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190509121607.jpg?resize=640%2C312&ssl=1)
![](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190509121650.jpg?resize=640%2C468&ssl=1)
![](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190509122112.jpg?resize=640%2C376&ssl=1)
![](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190509121707.jpg?resize=640%2C295&ssl=1)
![](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190509122232.jpg?resize=640%2C302&ssl=1)
拍完照~心滿意足要去用餐,結果油屋餐廳居然沒開!例休日不是星期三嗎?這天明明是週四啊~天啊為啥為啥為啥……還不到12點半阿!重點不是油屋餐廳有多好吃,重點是另一個(唯一一個)選擇是隔壁的快速餐食。
![IMG20190509122915 IMG20190509122915](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190509122915.jpg?fit=350%2C741&ssl=1)
![IMG20190509124433 IMG20190509124433](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190509124433.jpg?fit=350%2C741&ssl=1)
無奈走到旁邊點餐……是我吃過最平淡的咖哩飯了!無料咖哩飯!
對比一下牛仔控做的咖哩飯。就是平常吃太好~一時不能接受外面這種只有醬汁+白飯的咖哩飯。
![](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190801175932.jpg?resize=640%2C302&ssl=1)
![](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20191227184930.jpg?resize=640%2C302&ssl=1)
![](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190801180012.jpg?resize=640%2C302&ssl=1)
![](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190509130315.jpg?resize=640%2C345&ssl=1)
中餐後漫步走回伊根巴士站,再看舟屋一眼。
![](https://i0.wp.com/solelywriting.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG20190509135433.jpg?resize=640%2C355&ssl=1)
搭上巴士,再會了伊根。接下來就要到天橋立,看看日本三景囉!